| ALPHA-HYDROXY ACID PEELS | | | | and 4. Salicylic acid peels chemically devour |
| The beauty of alpha-hydroxy acid peels is that | | | | surface lipids and keratin creating more visual |
| they are safe for almost everyone and result in | | | | sloughing of the stratum corneum than AHA's. |
| minimal down time for your client. Both glycolic | | | | Your client will feel heat ranging from warm |
| and lactic acid peels are alpha hydroxy acid peels, | | | | flushing to extreme heat due to the quick |
| yet they react very differently with the skin. For | | | | inflammatory response in the skin from Salicylic |
| example glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane | | | | acid peels. Thus the phrase "melt down peel". You |
| and is corrosive. Glycolic acid penetrates the acid | | | | can help alleviate any discomfort they may have |
| mantle and goes through the inter-cellular matrix | | | | by offering your client a hand held fan. |
| to the basal layer. This creates a slow shedding of | | | | JESSNER'S PEEL |
| the epithelial layers and an inflammatory response | | | | Jessner's peel solution is a combination of three |
| creating new cell turn over in the epidermis and | | | | different acids: 14% lactic acid, 14% salicylic acid |
| as new cells rise to the surface old cells will be | | | | and 14% resorcinol in a denatured alcohol base. |
| slough gradually with daily cleansing. In essence, | | | | Jessner's peel is light sensitive due to the |
| glycolic peels work from the inside out. So | | | | resorcinol, so be careful to make sure the lid is |
| typically, with glycolic peels, your clients will see | | | | closed tight after each use and store away from |
| very little surface peeling. Glycolic acid comes in | | | | light. It is difficult to over peel with Jessner's due |
| strengths of 20%-70% with pH ranging from 3.5 | | | | to the fact that this peel works primarily in the |
| down to 1.6 for Medical settings. The best glycolic | | | | stratum corneum. Some people can be very |
| acid will come in a stabilized formula with an aloe | | | | sensitive to the resorcinol so it is best to take a |
| Vera carrier and a pH factor ranging from 3.0 to | | | | patch test several days before the scheduled peel |
| 2.0. | | | | to be safe. Jessner's chemical peels create a |
| LACTIC ACID PEEL | | | | marked vasodilation in the skin and a lot of heat |
| Lactic acid which is also an AHA is known for its | | | | reponse. Temporary darkening of the skin can |
| NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors). Lactic acid peels | | | | occur due to the resorcinol. Jessner's chemical |
| tend to penetrate the skin slower, softening | | | | peels also cause excessive exfoliation which some |
| hardened keratin from the surface down. The | | | | clients may or may not want. All these |
| result is a plumping of the stratum corneum | | | | symptoms are temporary and subside within 10 |
| making it easier to physically exfoliate. Glycolic acid | | | | to 14 days. If your client has a very compact |
| peels are ideally your best choice for wrinkles, | | | | normal stratum corneum or has recently |
| sagging skin and fine lines, while Lactic acid peels | | | | undergone deeper peels, do not be surprised to |
| are best for dry, alipidic skin, hyper-pigmentation | | | | have little to no exfoliation. It is possible to |
| and thickened sun-damaged skin. | | | | perform a Jessner's chemical peel on your client |
| SALICYLIC ACID PEEL | | | | and see no sloughing because of this. So proper |
| Salicylic acid or Beta peels is hydroxybenzoic acid | | | | skin assessment to determine how much stratum |
| found in willow bark. Salicylic peels usually come in | | | | corneum is present is important. |
| two strengths of 20 and 30 % and a ph of 3.0 to | | | | By understanding these four chemical peel options, |
| 2.0. Salicylic peels work best for excessively oily | | | | you can determine which peel is best for your |
| skin, retention keratosis, and active acne grades 3 | | | | clients. |